1. Identify if the tub has the original finish or has been reglazed before. One way to know if the tub has been reglazed before is if you notice some peeling just like the peeling you see on a hard boiled egg.
2. If the tub has been reglazed before, it is best to strip it down to the original finish to create better bonding. If the peeling is not too severe, you can sand down those areas until they are nice and smooth.
3. Remove all the caulking where the tub meets the tile using a caulking remover tool or a blade. Do not let the old caulking go down the drain.
4. If the tub has areas that are chipped, those can be fixed using all-purpose bondo. Follow bondo directions.
5. Clean the tub really well using Comet or similar cleaners using a 3M pad or sandpaper to help you remove the soap scum and other residues much easier.
6. Use a single blade to scrape the entire tub to make sure all the soap scum has been removed.
7. Rinse the tub one final time and dry it. Use a heat gun or hair dryer to blow any water from the area where the caulking was removed between the tub and the walls.
1. Tape a solo cup or similar product to the faucet to avoid any water dripping into the tub during the recoating and drying process. Water and wet epoxy do not get along.
2. As an extra precaution you can insert a cloth or a wrapped piece of paper towel in the drain just in case your masking fails. DO NOT push it all the way down the drain. Simply place it until it is flush with the top of the drain.
3. Tape the drain by using 3 or 4 pieces of tape going long ways, have the tape go over an inch to each side of the drain. Then on top of the tape you just placed, place another layer of tape to create an “X”.
4. Cut off the excess tape.
5. Mask the backflow plate.
6. Mask all the edges of the tub except where the tub meets the floor.
7. It is best to use duct tape (residue-free) where the tub meets the floor for better adhesion. That area is often not even and masking tape sometimes doesn’t stick.
Mask starting ⅛ of an inch above the floor to prevent the epoxy from flowing under the tape and onto the floor.
8. Mask your bathroom floor from the duct tape back to about 4 to 5 feet so you have a comfortable working area.
Before starting the mixing process, gather the following items and place them in your
working area so you do not find yourself rushing when the epoxy is ready to be poured.
o Foam roller
o Bondo plastic spreader
o Smaller container of a size that will fit comfortably in one hand for more accurate
o Single blade
o Heat gun or propane torch
o 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol
o Paper towels
o Garbage can
o Spotlight or flashlight
o Temperature gun
NOTE: In this step, it is extremely important to measure epoxy accurately and mix thoroughly, with clean buckets and clean mixing sticks.
Hardener (Part B) should always be poured into the mixing bucket first, followed by the resin (Part A) in an exact one-to-one ratio. Mix well with the stirring stick for 3 minutes (avoid drill mixing with this product). Be sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the bucket often to pull any unmixed part A or B off the container walls. Most problems encountered are because of failure to follow these instructions or failure to have your ambient air temperature, countertop and epoxy at the required temperature before starting.
1. Check epoxy temperature to be aware of how much working time you have. Typically, we allow the epoxy to naturally acclimate in the environment that we will be working in. That environment should be between 70-75 degrees for about 24 hours before the pour and 24 hours after the pour to ensure a hard finish. The ideal pouring temperature is between 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit; once you have finished mixing your product you should be in that appropriate temperature zone. You can bring the temperature down by spraying a mist of alcohol into the epoxy. Make note of the starting pouring time, it will help you later to judge material flow.
2. While you can pour directly from the main container, we find it easier to pour from a smaller bucket that will fit in your hand comfortably.
3. Begin pouring the material and note that all material must be poured as soon as possible. Leaving material in the bucket for too long will cause the epoxy to harden quickly. Start pouring from the left or the right side of the tub, whichever side is easier for you. Pour the entire bucket evenly to cover the two side walls and the back wall. DO NOT pour any epoxy in the top front ledge of the tub. This will allow you to work on the sides and back wall more easily without you worrying about getting epoxy on you as you lean on the tub.
4. Use the foam roller or spreader to move the material from the bottom of the tub to the areas that were missed until everything has been covered.
5. Use the spreader to scoop up all excess material from the bottom of the tub and place it into the small bucket. You will use that excess material to complete the inside front wall. Do not allow the material to flow to the front wall yet, so you can still lean into the tub if you need to reach.
6. Once the inside front wall is covered, scoop up all excess material and pour the front ledge of the tub and allow it to flow to the front. Just like you did before, use the roller or spreader to move the material up and around to cover all areas.
7. Use the foam roller to spread the material throughout the bottom of the tub.
8. Bathrooms are not known for having the best light, so use a flashlight or spotlight to look for imperfections as well as bubbles.
FINAL STEPS AND NOTES:
§ The material is self-leveling, so if you have covered all the areas the material will do the leveling job for you.
§ Remove any bubbles by using a heat gun, hair dryer, torch, or alcohol. To avoid any issues, DO NOT USE A TORCH if you are using alcohol. If you spray alcohol and you torch it too soon you will set the tub on fire.
§ For the next few hours, the material will slowly continue to flow to the drain area and the front area where the tub meets the floor. You should remove the extra material from those areas approximately every 15 minutes. Continue to check for bubbles and remove them as needed.
§ Depending on temperature and weather, the material will stop flowing approximately 3 hours from the moment you begin pouring. It is now ok to remove all the masking.
§ We find a single edge blade to be a great tool to wipe/scrape the material that slightly continues to flow in the drain area after the masking has been removed.
The material is now dry to the touch so you can now caulk the edges. The tub is ready
to use 48-72 hours after the pour was completed.