TOOLS & SUPPLIES (Included in ProTops Tool Kit)
- Clean Paint/Mixing Sticks
- Graduated Mixing Buckets
- Standard Mixing Cups
- Nylon Paint Brush
- Propane Torch
- 3M Masking Gun
- Masking Film & Painter's Tape
- Disposable Nitrile Gloves
- DAP spackling & sandpaper
STEP 1: PREPARATION & CLEANING
Before you start, make sure that both the epoxy, substrate and ambient air temperature are between 70 - 75 degrees Fahrenheit (21 - 24 Celcius). Clean countertop surface with 409 or a comparable cleaner. Make sure the entire work area is clean and free of dust and clutter, which may contaminate the finished product. Use DAP spackling to fill small holes, cracks and seams. Be sure not to leave any excess spackling on surfaces to be coated with epoxy. Use a sanding block to smooth repairs.
Product temperature may lower dramatically during transit this time of year. The product and ambient temperature must be between 70°-75° when mixing. Lower temperatures will affect the integrity of the cured epoxy. Please acclimate your epoxy to a 70 degree room first before use.
Skim Coat. If applying epoxy over a porous surface such as concrete or wood, a skim coat is necessary before flood coating with epoxy to prevent air bubbles in the finished product. If you're careful you can do this now; otherwise wait until after masking. Mix a small amount of epoxy according to the instructions in Step 3 and use a squeegee to spread a very thin coat over the entire surface. This will seal the surface to prevent air bubbles during the flood coat stage.
STEP 2: MASK & PAINT EDGES
After cleaning, let the countertop dry, then begin masking. Roll plastic onto the floor and under your work area. Place the masking material tightly up to the toe kicks under the cabinets and use masking tape to hold in place. Then run plastic along the front edge of your cabinets at the very top, just under the countertop, allowing it to drape onto the floor which you just masked. This is to allow epoxy to drip off the countertop without touching your cabinets or floors.
STEP 3: MIXING EPOXY
NOTE: In this step, it is extremely important to measure epoxy accurately and mix thoroughly, with clean buckets and clean mixing sticks. Measure 2 parts Resin to 1
part Hardener by volume. Hardener (Part B) should always be poured into the mixing bucket first, followed by the resin (Part A) in an exact two-to-one ratio. Because FX Casting
Resin is meant to be poured very thick, it is very important to try reduce the amount of bubbles that are created during the mixing process. Stir extremely slowly for 5 minutes. Be sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the bucket often to pull any unmixed part A or B off of the container walls.
STEP 4: SWITCHING BUCKETS
Take the already mixed FX Poxy and pour all of the contents into a second clean container. Stir just as slowly for an additional 4 minutes using a second clean mixing stick.
As soon as you are finished mixing, immediately pour all of your product out into the area you are trying to cast or build up. You can pour 1-2 inches at a time; 3 inches if you are experienced. When pouring less than an inch at a time the cure will take longer than the standard 48 hours."WARNING: If left in the bucket, it will harden much more quickly than when poured out on the surface, reducing your working time.
NOTE: All of our products have been specially engineered for compatibility. Use of other resins, colorants, pigments or powders may affect UV resistance, curing, bond strength or hardness of epoxy, and may result in an uneven finish, “fish-eyes,” or yellowing. Do not try to cut corners by mixing a cheaper epoxy or using other colorants and pigments with our epoxy. If you choose to ignore this advice, do so at your own risk! For more information, read the specifications on our Premium FX Poxy.
STEP 5: REMOVING BUBBLES
It is advised to spray 91% isopropyl alcohol to remove bubbles from FX Casting Resin. If necessary, you can torch the surface lightly (avoid torching after any alcohol is applied).
STEP 6: CLEANUP
Approximately 2-3 hours later, go around all edges with a paint stick or putty knife in order to remove drips from the bottom edge. Once the epoxy is completely cured, if you have any remaining drips, you can remove them with sandpaper. Once epoxy has hardened to the point that drips are no longer forming (about 2 - 4 hours), you can start to remove the masking and clean up the area.
THAT'S IT, YOU'RE DONE!
Wait at least 36 hours before using your project, and longer before placing heavy objects on surface.
Do you still have questions? Please don't hesitate to call. We have the friendliest most experienced staff in the industry, and for no additional cost, we will be happy to walk you through the entire process. Call Now at 970-639-9338 to speak one-on-one with one of our professional installers.
NOTE: All of our products have been specially engineered for compatibility. Use of other epoxy resins and colorants may affect UV resistance and curing. Do not try to cut corners by mixing a cheaper epoxy or using other colorants with our epoxy. If you choose to ignore this advice, do so at your own risk! For more information, read the specifications on our FX Casting Resin.